How to Create a Soft Smoky Eye for Any Skin Tone

I love a smoky eye. My look is to make it softer and slightly undone as I've matured. A softer smoky eye can actually be more flattering on mature skin than a highly structured eye look because it doesn't depend on perfectly crisp lines.

Think smudged eyeliner, diffused eyeshadow and softly defined lashes.

If you have changing vision or wear progressives, etc. I find smudging easier than creating a straight line, which may be why I have been doing it for a few years now!

How to create a soft smoky eye

Step 1: Start with a light layer of neutral shadow

Apply a thin layer of neutral matte or satin eyeshadow across your lid to create a smooth base and blend with your darker colours.  It doesn't need to be dramatically different from your natural skin tone.

Note: Avoid applying too much powder, especially if your eyelids are dry or textured.

Step 2: Add your eyeliner

• Apply eyeliner as close to your upper lashes as possible; it doesn't have to be perfectly straight as you're going to smudge it.
• Start with a thinner line at the inner corner, then gradually add more depth toward the outer third of the eye.
• For an even softer effect, concentrate most of the liner along the outer half of your lash line.

If you want more drama, rim your entire eye with eyeliner. You can apply it just to the waterline for a slightly more subtle look.

Step 3: Smudge before the liner sets

• Using a small pencil brush, angled brush or smudging brush, gently work the liner back and forth along the lash line.
• You're trying to blur the upper edge so there isn't an obvious line between the eyeliner and your eyeshadow.
• Blend less closer to the lashes, so the colour is darkest there, then blend it softer as you move upward.

Tip: Work on one eye at a time. If you're using liquid, gel or a long-wearing or water-resistant pencil formula, it becomes harder to blend once it sets.

Step 4: Layer eyeshadow over the liner

• Take a coordinating eyeshadow and lightly press it over the smudged liner. It adds dimension, softens the eyeliner even further and can help extend wear.
• Then blend a small amount of the same shadow outward and slightly upward at the outer corner with a slight lift rather than a sharp angle.

Step 5: Decide how smoky you want the lower lash line

• For a softer daytime look: Leave the lower lashes almost bare and add mascara.
• For more drama: Apply a tiny amount of shadow along the outer third of the lower lash line and gently blend it. If you've applied eyeliner to your lower eye, make sure the shadow and liner are blended to create the smudge.

Tip: Try not to draw a thick, solid line underneath your entire eye. Keeping the colour diffused and concentrated toward the outer corner can create definition without visually pulling the eye downward.

Step 6: Finish with mascara

• Finish with mascara to bring definition back to the lashes.
• Concentrate a little extra mascara toward the outer lashes if you want to emphasize the softly lifted shape you've created with your shadow.

Tip: For more dramatic eyelashes, apply two to three coats of mascara. Work on one eye at a time, applying the additional coats before the first one dries.

The best smoky-eye colours for your skin tone

Choose colours that create enough contrast against your complexion while complementing your undertone. But if you love black and it's not perfect for your skin tone, I'd say go for it anyway! You have to be happy with your results!

Don't forget your undertone

Skin tone is only part of the equation; your undertone is important too.

Cool undertones: Try mauve, plum, charcoal, pewter, cool taupe, berry and blue-based burgundy. A plum or charcoal-brown liner can be particularly fab when you want definition without the intensity of solid black.

Warm undertones: Look for bronze, copper, chocolate, warm brown, terracotta, mahogany and olive. Bronze shadow paired with softly smudged espresso liner is an especially easy combination for an everyday smoky eye.

Neutral undertones: You have plenty of room to experiment. Try taupe, cocoa, bronze, rose brown, plum, espresso or charcoal depending on how warm or cool you want the finished look to feel.

Olive undertones: Bronze, antique gold, chocolate, olive, aubergine and deep navy can be particularly striking. If some grey shadows make your complexion look slightly flat, try swapping grey for deep brown, olive or plum.

Smoky eye mistakes to avoid on mature eyes

• Using too much dark shadow. Start close to the lash line and build slowly. It's much easier to add colour than remove it.
• Taking dark shadow too high. Keeping your deepest shades closer to the lashes maintains definition without overwhelming the eye.
• Using only black. Black can be beautiful, but espresso, plum, and navy often create just as much definition with a softer finish.
• Trying to make both eyes perfectly identical. Your eyes aren't identical to begin with. Aim for balance, not mathematical symmetry.
• Over-powdering the eye area. Too much powder can emphasize texture. Use thin layers and blend gently.

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